On Wednesday night we headed for Tokyo. Our hotel, Ryumeikan Hotel, had very explicit directions on how to find it once you arrive at the Tokyo Station. The only humorous, yet slightly troubling part of the directions was the last statement, "If you arrive at the hotel, go to the 15th floor for reception." We just didn't know how true this statement was going to be. They even showed a picture of the hotel...or at least we thought. We walked left as it said and then looked for the ivory building that it mentioned. We saw the ivory building in the photo and started looking for the entrance. We walked around and around but could not find the hotel. Finally after making increasingly larger circles we decided to head down the street. Sure enough about two blocks away we found another ivory building that had our hotel name on it. Apparently the photo was just to get us heading in the right direction...or they have quite a sense of humor. I am afraid that there might be video footage on a "Funniest Videos" website. The room ended up being gorgeous, though very, very tiny. I love any room that has a white duvet cover and free waters waiting for you.
We slept not even 3 hours and then were off to the slopes. As usual we rode in style in the first class "green car" which had nice big seats and comfortable footrests because of the Japan Rail Pass that we had purchased. We were going to a resort called Joetsu Kansai. We ended up with the most amazing powder and had the whole mountain practically to ourselves. There were many times on the lift that we could not even see another person. It snowed and snowed which did cause there to be low visibility, but boy was the powder awesome. There was one run that the snow was thigh deep and often sprayed up to your head. After doing that run a few times and realizing that we were in no shape to keep that up we headed for the groomed runs. The one thing that is great about Japan is that no matter where you go you can always get fresh, good food (though it's pricey) rather than our cheap, highly processed food. Even slope side the food was wonderful. After a long day of skiing we decided to head back for Tokyo, grab dinner, and hit the sack.
` For dinner we found a restaurant right around the corner from our hotel that was recommended by our Lonely Planet guide book. The restaurant ended up being even better than I expected. They specialized in a salt water eel called udon. We ordered one grilled and one boiled. There were directions on how to eat it and at the end of the meal you poured a broth into a bowl along with the leftover rice and eel to make a wonderful soup. It was quite delicious.
The next day in Tokyo we headed off for Electric Town in Akihabara to look around at the crazy electronics. There was one building after another that were 5 to 7 stories tall filled with electronic gadgets, trinkets, and odd assortments of household items. We thought we would find tons of new things that hadn't reached the U.S. yet but surprisingly there wasn't much that we haded seen before.
Next we headed for the Oedo Onsen Monogatari in Tokyo, which is a public bath that has natural, mineral water that was pumped 1400m from below Tokyo Bay. In an onsen, the men and women go to separate areas, strip down, bath sitting on a wooden stool, and then soak in the water. We were expecting a nice, relaxing atmosphere, but instead when we walked in there were 200 Japanese people in line to buy tickets. We had to take our shoes off immediately and put them in lockers where we got a key. Then we got in line and received another key for a locker in the changing room. Next we got in line to receive our yakatas which are light, cotton robes that you put on with a long sash. After picking up everything we needed we headed off to the changing rooms. Here was where we put on our yukatas before meeting back up in "meeting room." Nothing quite prepared us for what we saw. It was like a Japanese Epcot with hundreds of people sitting at tables in the middle. Along the walls were tons of restaurants to order food and there was a stage in the middle. Kids were running around everywhere playing games for prizes, and it looked like the hot spot for friends and families to hang out. It was so strange to see hundreds of people in the same set of robes. Apparently it was a holiday, and the first day of snow in Tokyo this year so everyone else in Tokyo had also headed for the onsen.
First we decided to check out the outdoor footbath which was co-ed. On the way outside we decided that we needed to make a pit stop. The restrooms that we found only had one room for men and one for women. Because we were all barefoot, you had to put on a pair of slippers to enter...the very same slippers that the person before you had just worn into the bathroom. Let me just tell you that it was very "comfort level" stretching to put on a still warm pair of vinyl slippers, knowing that any and everyone who had gone to the bathroom had also worn them.
To head outside to the footbaths you put on a insulated yukata overcoat that was still wet from the person before since it was snowing outside. We had to run barefoot across a wooden deck and then over freezing astroturf before entering the warm water. Right as you finally relaxed in the water you took a few steps and realized that your feet were in pain. Set into the bottom of the concrete "stream" were river rocks that had been turned up on edge and were place every 4 inches. They were so tall that they hurt your feet and which was not at all what you were expecting. We only made it 4 or 5 feet of a 40 foot stream before bailing to a bench on the banks where we could dangle our feet in the warm water.Scott kept telling me that I was fired as the travel agent. We didn't know what a good move this was, though. For the next 30 minutes we laughed (I had tears rolling down my cheeks) at the groups of unsuspecting footbathers that would come running for warmth only to be assaulted by painful spikes. Everyone had the same reaction. Their shoulders would relax, they would head in, and then would come the exclamations of "itie itie itie" (it hurts, it hurts, it hurts). Everyone would try and get lower and lower to try and stop the pain. Then they would start laughing at themselves and everyone else around them exclaiming the same thing. As we watched this scene over and over we decided this must be a secret samurai test that was being watched from camera. Before people would approach we would vote on whether they were going to pass or not. The big, tough looking men usually failed, while the little women fared much better. We decided that women were used to foot torture with our high heel shoes.
Finally we were cold from the snow and we headed in to get something to eat. We had a great meal while a rather large Japanese man performed a comedy act that involved a nose flute, a mechanical horse, and some crazy dancing (that should not be repeated in public if you want any kind of self respect). Then we were off to the baths. We each went into the second set of changing rooms where I saw at least 200 naked Japanese women with varying levels of modesty. After stripping down, you head out to the baths. Oh, and be sure to only bring in the little towel issued to you, not the big towel which stays in the third locker that you are issued. Before entering, though, you go to a little stall where there is a 10 inch high wooden stool, a shower head, and soap and shampoo. You wash off first before soaking in the water. There were a selection of 6 indoor pools and 1 large outdoor pool. Once you got over the naked factor, it really was quite relaxing. After we were finished, Scott and I both agreed that it was an experience that we would never forget and that we are glad that we hadn't missed.
After the onsen we headed off to the "Tokyo Time Square" at Shibuya. This is where you see the pictures of the crazy lights and the crosswalk where hundreds of people flood the streets each time the light changes. The crosswalk even has a diagonal walk. It truly is every man for himself and as you start across you feel like you are going into battle. We had had big plans to go to a club that night but we realized that we were both exhausted. We also knew that we had an early morning ahead of us at the Tsukiji Fish Market. We headed to bed and once again only got 5 hours of sleep.
On our last morning in Japan we struggled to get out of bed, but thought we shouldn't miss the famous Tsukiji Fish Market. This was a crazy experience...every type of seafood you can imagine (and a few you couldn't), motorized carts zooming by in every direction, and people selling everywhere you can look. You couldn't even really grasp how big that place was because we walked down one isle for 20 minutes at least and never even saw the end because it arcs around. There were at least 10 to 15 rows exactly like the one that we walked down. It was absolutely massive! One crazy thing we saw was the huge bandsaws used to cut up a whole, gigantic tuna into smaller bricks. We also saw squid, octopus, eel, tiny river fish that you eat whole (30 at a time), conch, snails, and every type of fish imaginable. It was quite a site.
The end of our trip had come and it was time to head home. Before us was 24 hours of travelling with the major prize at the end of seeing our angel baby, Ella.